Before the trip
Eighteen days are far richer when you arrive already understanding what you’re looking at. Here’s what to get through before 31 October.
Films

The Motorcycle Diaries 2004, Walter Salles
Young Che Guevara rides across South America by motorbike. Shot in Cusco, at Machu Picchu and on Titicaca — half the frames are from our first days.

Nostalgia for the Light 2010, Patricio Guzmán
The Atacama: astronomers search the world’s driest sky while women search the same desert for the remains of their loved ones. Watch before day 14 — you’ll understand why the desert looks the way it does.

Even the Rain 2010, Icíar Bollaín
A film crew shooting a Columbus movie in Bolivia gets caught in the Water War. About how the country we’re spending a week in actually works.

The Milk of Sorrow 2009, Claudia Llosa
Golden Bear at the Berlinale. The Peruvian highlands, Quechua, post-war trauma — anything but a tourist’s view of the country.
Video & YouTube
Links go to YouTube search rather than specific videos: they won’t go stale, and you’ll pick a fresh upload.

Minaev: Secrets of the Inca Empire MINAEV LIVE · history series (in Russian)
Machu Picchu, sacrifices and Inca gold. Exactly what we’ll see on days five and eight — watch before Cusco.

Minaev: How Spain Drowned Mexico in Blood MINAEV LIVE · history series (in Russian)
On the conquest. Formally it’s Mexico, not Peru, but the machinery of Spanish conquest was the same — seven years after Cortés, Pizarro repeated it with the Incas.

Minaev: The Maya Civilisation MINAEV LIVE · history series (in Russian)
The third great civilisation of pre-Columbian America. It isn’t on our route — the Maya lived in Mesoamerica — but alongside the Incas it completes the picture of what the Spanish found.

Peru: Machu Picchu, llamas and rainbow mountains ready-made episode
A tour of exactly our first-week stops — Cusco, Machu Picchu, Vinicunca.

Uyuni salt flat: how the photos are made search
Forced-perspective shots, the mirror after rain, sunset on the white field. Watch beforehand — there’ll be no time to invent compositions on site.

The Atacama and the Valley of the Moon search
What to see in San Pedro and what sunset looks like in the Valley of the Moon — our day 14.

La Paz and the Mi Teleférico cable cars search
The canyon-bowl city from a cable car — Bolivia’s cheapest thrill ride.

Altitude sickness: a doctor explains search
Look for medical breakdowns, not blogger tips: this is a topic where mistakes cost a lot.

Vinicunca: what the climb looks like search
A sober idea of what two hours on foot at 5,000 m means — better than any description.
Books
John Hemming — The Conquest of the Incas
The definitive account of what happened between Pizarro and the Incas. After it, Sacsayhuamán and Ollantaytambo stop being just stones.
Mark Adams — Turn Right at Machu Picchu
A journalist retraces Hiram Bingham’s route a century on. Lively, funny, and it answers who really “found” Machu Picchu and how.
Mario Vargas Llosa — Aunt Julia and the Scriptwriter Peru’s Nobel laureate
Mid-century Lima, radio soaps and absurdity. The easiest way into Peruvian literature.
Pablo Neruda — The Heights of Macchu Picchu a poem from Canto General
Twelve cantos written after Neruda climbed to the ruins in 1943. An evening’s read — and it comes back to you in full on site.
Che Guevara — The Motorcycle Diaries the film’s source
The road diary of a 23-year-old student. The same route, only seventy years earlier.
Music
You’ll hear all of this on the ground — in squares, on buses and in the 4x4s.
Los Kjarkas Bolivia
The continent’s foremost Andean band. The world knows their “Llorando se fue” as the Lambada, though it’s a Bolivian saya.
Víctor Jara and Violeta Parra Chile
Violeta Parra’s “Gracias a la vida” is Chile’s second anthem. Jara was killed a week after the 1973 coup.
Inti-Illimani Chile
Charango, quena, zampoña — the sound of the Altiplano you’ll hear live on every square.
Susana Baca and Chabuca Granda Peru
The Afro-Peruvian coastal tradition: cajón, vals criollo. Nothing like what they play in the mountains.
«El Cóndor Pasa» Peru, 1913
The melody was written by Peruvian Daniel Alomía Robles; the world learned it from Simon & Garfunkel. You’ll hear it twenty times on this route.
Practical
Thirty phrases of Spanish
English is hit-and-miss in Cusco and La Paz, and useless in Sur Lípez. Numbers, “how much”, “I feel ill”, “where’s the toilet” — that covers ninety percent of situations.
Offline maps for your phone
Organic Maps or maps.me: download Peru, Bolivia and northern Chile at home over Wi-Fi. Our page only caches map areas you have already opened.
